07 June 2011

jura bike trip: marmara kebab, poligny

Our dinner together being planned for the night after, we asked our vigneron host Ludwig Bindernagel if he had any suggestions for where to eat on a Sunday night in Poligny. His response was quick, cheerful, and unequivocal: Marmara Kebab, a Turkish kebab spot just around the corner. I got the impression he wasn't just suggesting the place because it was the only thing open on a Sunday night, either: he seemed to really appreciate the food and the hospitality, saying it was their regular neighborhood retreat after a day tending vines.

Hell, we were game. After a day of grueling uphill mountain-road biking, doner sounded fantastic.

At Ludwig's suggestion, we told the friendly proprietor we were sent by Ludwig and Nathalie, at which point the welcome became even friendlier. The staff moved a table outside onto the desserted stone side street for us, creating a mini terrace beside a luridly algae-green fountain, and we all ordered heaping delicious doner galettes.

Seeing some unlikely looking Turkish wine on offer for 6€ a bottle, we decided to share one. In the spirit of wine exploration and, you know, drinking random things you don't see every day.

You get what you pay for.

Later research reveals it was a Classic Series rosé called "Lâl," by Kavaklidere, who are Turkey's first private sector winemaking operation, founded in 1929. They work no less than 550ha of land in Turkey's Anatolia region. The entry page on their website asks: "Are you of 24 years of age or older?" I have no other experience with the grape from which this wine was made - Cal Karasi - and it seems somewhat unfair to draw any conclusions about the grape, or Turkish wine in general, on the basis of the bottle we had, which dated from 2008 and which was something like chewing on an expired red-fruit flavored energy bar, metallic wrapper included.

The galettes were awesome, in any case. Since that evening I've in fact taken a (literally) unhealthy interest in finding ones just as good back in Paris, so far to no avail.*

* It is, of course, altogether possible that my enjoyment of those I had in Poligny was sharpened somewhat by having bicycled 50 miles before eating them. Though this did not apply to the wine.

Marmara Kebab
7, rue Cadran
Tel: 03 84 37 07 76

Related Links:

Jura Bike Trip: Excuses
Jura Bike Trip: Saline Royale d'Arc et Senans
Jura Bike Trip: A Brocante in Arbois
Jura Bike Trip: Our Overnoy Oversight
Jura Bike Trip: Chez Bindernagel: Les Jardins Sur Glantine

A questionable review of the "Lâl" @ FoodsOfTurkey
A you've-got-to-be-kidding-me review of the "Lâl" @ FearlessCritic
Another booster review of the "Lâl" @ TasteOfTurkey

All this proves is that for any wine under the sun it is possible to find a positive review by an uncredited web source, terming said wine, at very least, "mineral."


  1. For the "gallettes" (they're called Lamacun), go to Urfa Durum on the rue du Faubourg St Denis, just near the Julhès wine store. They're the best in Paris.

  2. thanks! looking forward to checking that out.